Setup OctoPrint on Raspberry Pi
First, you should follow our full guide to learn how to set up OctoPrint on your Raspberry Pi. Then hop back over this guide for the Ender 3 V2 specifics.
Form factor: Rectangular Origin: Lower Left Heated Bed: Yes (checked) Heated Chamber: No (unchecked) Width: 220mm Depth: 220mm Height: 250mm Axes: Default** Custom Bounding Box: No (unchecked) Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm Number of Extruders: 1
** The Axes setting is only used for manually controlling the printer -- as I slice my models before putting them into OctoPrint, I didn't bother filling this out. However, you can if you choose; remember the Axes speed settings are per minute, whereas the settings in most slicing programs are per second.
Serial Port: AUTO Baudrate: AUTO
Most of the settings are the same as with the original Ender 3, with the noticeable difference being that OctoPi can now detect the serial port automatically.
Download Ender 3 V2 OctoPrint Plugins
As of the writing of this guide (Nov. 2020), there are two mandatory plugins you need to install for the Ender 3 V2 in OctoPrint:
Check out our guide on installing OctoPrint plugins to see how to find and install these.
Update your Firmware
Updating your firmware may be required when using the Ender 3 V2 with OctoPrint. After connecting to the printer inside of OctoPrint, you might see the following message: "Warning: Firmware Broken". In this case, you'll need to have the latest firmware version to print remotely from your Raspberry Pi.
Even without this warning, OctoPrint caused my print speed to max out, no matter what setting I used. When I updated the firmware, however, this issue disappeared. So I recommend updating the firmware either way.
Thankfully, updating the firmware on the Ender 3 V2 is much easier than it was on V1.
If you update your firmware and still get the "Warning: Firmware Broken" message, install this plugin to solve the issue until Creality can fix it in an upcoming firmware version (the message will persist but the underlying issue will be fixed).
Before I begin, I should note that I had a heck of a time finding components on Thingiverse that would work for my Ender 3 V2 OctoPrint setup. With the Ender 3 V2 still being relatively new (as of November 2020), there aren't as many specific models for the printer. I am also using a Raspberry Pi 4, which needs a fan, so I needed to find a case specifically with a fan.
That said, here are the Ender 3 V2 components that I used for setting up OctoPrint. Depending on what Pi and fan you're using, you'll likely need to adjust these parts as noted below.
Ender 3 V2 Camera Mount
Mounting a camera to your Ender 3 V2 really turns the OctoPrint experience from "this is pretty cool" to "this is freakin' awesome!" As the Z-axis stepper motor travels up during your 3D printing, the camera follows it. You get to watch the whole print take place remotely on your computer or anywhere—if you want to use our guide to access OctoPrint from anywhere. You can even record the entire print as a time-lapse if you choose.
Print out the camera case and camera mount. If you're using my components, you should have no trouble. Do note that the case attaches to the mount very tightly. You need a tight fit so the camera does not shake when the printer is on.
There are two additional options for a shorter boom-arm and a bolt-less installation. I like the long boom arm personally because of the low angle it allows while viewing the print.
Ender 3 V2 Raspberry Pi Enclosure
The case I linked to earlier is for the Raspberry Pi 3 with a 25mm fan. You likely aren't using the exact same fan, so here's the same case for the 30mm fan. It does fit the Ender 3 V2 and attaches to the side 80/20 aluminum rail. By the time you read this, there may be even more available on Thingiverse, so feel free to browse around.
The camera I used was the official Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2.
You're looking for a camera mount that attaches across the front Ender 3 V2 Z-axis motor, as that has the same specs as the Ender 3. Do not use an original Ender 3 camera mount that attaches to the side of the motor, as it might not fit properly.
The camera mount and case I used do fit easily and even have an option for installation without the recommended 2mm bolt/nut.
Do this step prior to putting your Raspberry Pi into its case so you can more easily connect the ribbon cable to it.
- Decide if you want to mount the camera above the boom-arm or below. (I mounted mine below, as I think it gives a better view of the print.)
- Insert your printed swivel pin accordingly, until it snaps in place.
- Use an
M2 x 20mmbolt to connect the camera case to the mount.
Note: If you're using the mount I selected, it will be difficult to get the bolt through. This is intentional, as everything needs to be tight so the camera holds its position. Just take your time. - Connect the Raspberry Pi ribbon cable to the camera. - Carefully click the camera into place. - Snap the back of the camera case into place.
Ender 3 V2 Raspberry Pi camera cable length
You're absolutely going to need to use this extension cable when connecting your camera to your Raspberry Pi. The cable that comes with the Pi camera is not long enough and will break if you try to use it.
As with anything you do, when connecting the ribbon cable—take your time and be careful not to break the camera.
We like using the official Raspberry Pi camera for OctoPrint, but there are other OctoPrint cameras and webcams that you can use too.
Optional ribbon clip
If you printed the optional ribbon clip that comes with the camera mount, then you can use this to guide your extension cable some. Don't loop it on the clip. Only put it through once, leaving plenty of slack for when the Z-axis motor raises up on high prints.
You should have two 3D-printed pieces—a faceplate (with the fan opening) and the case itself.
If your case fits the fan size properly, then simply bolt the fan to the case using 4
M3 x 12mm bolts/nuts.
If it doesn't work perfectly or you need help installing a fan on the case, head over to our guide on adding a Raspberry Pi 4 fan to a case.
Pi camera ribbon cable
You'll need to slide your camera ribbon cable through the slot on your Raspberry Pi case. If your case does not have a slot, then you'll need to manually cut one.
Bolt case together
Carefully add the four
M3 x 16mm bolts to connect the case. Lightly tighten each bolt one at a time. Then, fully tighten each bolt.
The case that I chose slides into the side rail of the Ender 3 V2, so you won't need any nuts or bolts.
- Optional: file down the brackets on the case some to loosen the fit. It will be a very tight fit otherwise.
- Unbolt the front-left cover of the Ender 3 V2, so you can create room in which to slide the case. Make sure your MicroSD is removed.
- Push the case brackets through the sidebar slowly. Don't damage your Pi. If you need to, you can file down the brackets more.
- Reattach the front cover.
Route camera cable
Route the camera cable up through the cable clip (if using one), and into your camera. Make sure the ribbon cable is straight and not bent.
If you want to power your Raspberry Pi directly from your Ender 3 V2, then you'll need to modify our guide on powering the pi from the original Ender 3. We only recommend you do this if you have enough knowledge of electronics and power supplies.
I'm fine with my Raspberry Pi being plugged directly into the wall, so I did not do this.
While viewing the camera feed in the OctoPi/OctoPrint interface:
- Slide your bed to center it.
- Place a small object in the center of the bed on which to focus the camera. (I chose a small bottle with some text, so I could easily focus the camera.)
- Use the small white wheel that came with your Raspberry Pi camera to turn the camera lens until the object is perfectly focused.
Now, make sure your Ender 3 V2 bed is leveled, and you're ready to print.
Here's my first Ender 3 V2 Octolapse time-lapse!
Watch the video:
How did we do?
The Prusa i3 MK3S is my favorite 3D printer I've used so far. It's got all the bells and whistles and prints wonderfully every time I use it.